La Jolla Sky Tour

I thought I knew La Jolla, but something happened last week that has given me a new perspective.

I flew over my hometown of several decades – not in a big jet that was in a hurry to get someplace, but in a five-seat Piper Seneca with time to meander along the coast.

The scenic flight was a way of introducing out-of-town guests to the area, but I almost think I enjoyed the aerial view more than they did.

I picked out my favorite landmarks and saw how things fit together – where the country club is in relation to the village, how close Torrey Pines State Park is to the gliderport and the golf course, that kind of thing. I’ve driven past these places hundreds of times, but the birds-eye view was both beautiful and instructive

I came away feeling very lucky to live here – and very glad that our home is not clinging to a sandstone cliff.

We booked the tour through Air2Air (http://www.air2aircorp.com/) and President Michael Doerr was our pilot. I felt totally safe, especially after he mentioned that he formerly flew jets out of Miramar and was a Captain at Northwest Airlines for 19 years.

The twin-engine light aircraft is fixed with comfortable club seating, which enables business passengers to hold mini-meetings en route to their destination. It also makes it easy for sightseers to point things out to each other and pass cameras back and forth.

The flight left from Palomar Airport and, after cruising the La Jolla coast, continued over Lindbergh Field and Coronado to South Bay. The panorama of downtown San Diego gives meaning to the term “urban resort,” and I loved that someone had written a huge “Coronado” in the sand in front of the Hotel del.

I’ve often been asked about the best view points in La Jolla and other parts of San Diego, and I’ve hesitated, qualified my reply, and felt the need to explain – but from now on, I know what my answer will be.

Something fishy going on in La Jolla

If you're visiting La Jolla and notice groups of locals on the beach at night shining flashlights onto the surf, chances are good the grunion - tiny little fish - are going through their odd mating ritual. Nothing - well, almost nothing - intrigues San Diegans like a good grunion run.

On certain spring and summer nights following high tides, hundreds of the small, silvery fish ride waves onto shore for this remarkable dance. While on the beach, female grunion bury themselves in the sand to lay eggs, while males wrap themselves protectively around the females to fertilize their eggs. Both catch a wave to return to sea.

You can grab a flashlight (and jacket) and head to La Jolla Shores on your own or you can join the folks at Birch Aquarium (http://aquarium.ucsd.edu/) for a more educated approach to the spawning phenomena. Reservations must be made in advance by calling 858-534-7336. The program costs $12 per person.

Dates of the spring Birch Aquarium escorted runs are:

Friday, April 16, 9:30-11:30 p.m.
Friday, May 14, 9:30-11:30 p.m.
Friday, May 28, 9-11 p.m.
Saturday, May 29, 9:30-11:30 p.m.

If you want more info, "Grunion Groupies" meet Saturdays and Sundays, April 3-June 6 at 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m. and 1:30 p.m. at the Birch Aquarium at Scripps. Here, naturalists describe the tale of the elusive California grunion, including how these fish "run" up our local beaches and lay their eggs in the moist sand.

The Grunion Groupie lecture is included in the cost of admission to the Aquarium: $12 adult, $9 senior, $8.50 youth 3-17, and children under 2 free.

The California Department of Fish & Game also provides information on their website and posts the schedule for the "expected grunion runs" March - August 2010 http://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/grunionschedule.asp

You really haven't seen La Jollans at their kookiest until you've been to a grunion run.

Watercolor courtesy of Grunion Greeter Don Longacre, www.grunion.org

Art + Culture La Jolla

La Jolla is known for its beaches, great restaurants, and variety of shopping options. In fact, it's these features that draw most visitors to our community and make it one of San Diego's most popular places.

However, in addition to seals and sand, we also offer a wide range of cultural activities. Unfortunately, until recently, it wasn't easy for out-of-towners to discover our highbrow side - and get the scoop on our performing arts, concerts, art exhibits, literature, and family activities.

Enter http://www.artculturelajolla.com/ - the brainchild of Nancy Warwick, owner of La Jolla's beloved Warwick's Books on Girard Avenue.

Nancy, with the help of Nancy Bockoven, has built a website chockablock with a comprehensive listing of events that are part of "La Jolla's vibrant and diverse arts scene."

Whether you are looking for a family activity, stimulating performing arts, an exhibit, or a musical concert - I'm willing to bet you'll find something of interest at www.artculturelajolla.com

B&B On the Sea

If you want romantic lodging with one of San Diego's best views – you can’t do better than this historic cottage on a bluff overlooking the beach in La Jolla. In contrast to a hotel, this cozy spot offers all the comforts of home while still affording plenty of privacy.

The Master Bedroom ($295) has a large wooden deck where guests can enjoy a glass of wine and watch the sun set over the ocean. The Captain’s Room ($225) offers a balcony with the same big blue vista. The Overflow Room ($125), with twin beds, is great when 5 or 6 people are traveling together.

These rates, which vary somewhat by season, include breakfast in the elegant dining room and wine and cheese served at 4pm. Guests also have the use of the living room, although the bedrooms each have their own TVs and wireless Internet.

“Historic La Jolla Cove Cottage,” as it is sometimes known, dates from 1924, when it was the first home built on this block. It’s just recently been reconfigured into a B&B and, due to its amazing location, is booking out fast.

Owners Laura Barton Williams and Mary Ruth Barton live on the premises and are fonts of information on the area’s history. Laura’s grandfather bought the house in 1957. A selection of his books and historic memorabilia line the shelves in the reading alcove of the Master Bedroom.

To make reservations, go to http://www.bartonrentals.com/ or call 858-454-4822.

B&B On the Sea offers the best of both worlds – La Jolla history in a scenic location and very comfortable accommodations.

La Jolla Lodging By Location

Where you stay in La Jolla will influence your vacation more than any other factor, so I want to make sure you find just the right hotel, motel, B&B, or resort.

LA JOLLA HOTEL RESERVATIONS

Before you make a decision, check out the deals offered via the “reservation box” in the top right corner of this blog. You may be surprised to find that La Jolla has cheap places to stay, as well as luxury hotels, suites, and spas. San Diego Hotel Week (http://www.sandiegohotelweek.com/) is another good source of bargain beds.

What follows below is a listing of local accommodation, grouped by neighborhood. I’ll follow up with details on the various places as time permits. In the meantime, check out the map at http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=102753819517919873889.00044c7eebf5647208f7d&ll=32.847866,-117.232361&spn=0.138446,0.219727&z=12&source=embed

North Torrey Pines Road

This is a great area if you want to play golf or watch a tournament at the beautiful Torrey Pines Golf Course. However, both of these luxury resorts sit atop sandstone cliffs, making them a poor choice for beach-goers. A car is a must here because a taxi into the village for shopping and dining costs about $20 each way.

• Hilton La Jolla Torrey Pines
• The Lodge at Torrey Pines

Near the University of California San Diego

Easy access to UCSD is the big draw for these three hotels. Estancia is on North Torrey Pines Road, but the Sheraton and the Residence Inn are within walking distance of places to eat and a couple of shopping centers that include a movie theatre, Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s, etc.

• Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa
• Sheraton La Jolla Hotel
• Residence Inn

East of I-5, On La Jolla Village Drive

By definition, these places are not in La Jolla, but they are close enough to be of interest. The Embassy Suites and the Marriott are across the street from University Towne Center. Having said that, travelers don’t come to La Jolla to spend time in a mall, so you’ll need a car if you stay in this area.

• Embassy Suites – San Diego
• Marriott – San Diego La Jolla
• Hyatt Regency La Jolla at Aventine

La Jolla Shores

Now we’re getting to the fun stuff. I walk on La Jolla Shores Beach several times a week and never tire of watching surfers, kayakers and kids digging holes in the sand. In addition to the beach, the Shores has its own little restaurant row and a handful of kayak rental places and beachy stores. I wrote about the difference between The Shores and The Village on July 31, 2009, so flip over to that post for a more complete description.

• Hotel La Jolla at The Shores
• La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club
• La Jolla Riviera Apartments
• La Jolla Shores Hotel (formerly The Sea Lodge)

The Village

La Jolla’s heart has it all: charm and personality, myriad dining options, great shopping, the postcard-perfect La Jolla Cove, a world-class art museum, a seal colony, fantastic ocean views…and almost enough parking for the folks who want to enjoy our little seaside community. In fact, in this neighborhood, being car-less has its advantages.

• B & B on the Sea
• Best Western Inn By the Sea
• Empress Hotel
• Hotel Parisi
• La Jolla Cove Suites
• La Jolla Inn
• La Jolla Village Lodge
• La Valencia
• The Bed & Breakfast Inn at La Jolla (pictured above)
• The Grand Colonial
• Redwood Hollow Cottages
• Scripps Inn
• Shell Beach Motel

La Jolla Boulevard

South of the Village, a few motels provide budget lodgings within walking distance of the beach. This area (south of Nautilus Street) also includes places to eat, and the number 30 bus that runs on La Jolla Boulevard is useful for getting into the village or further a field to San Diego attractions (http://www.sdcommute.com/).

• Holiday Inn Express
• La Jolla Beach Travelodge

Why am I doing this?

I live in La Jolla and I'm a travel writer.

What that means is that, in addition to enjoying my home town's great weather, beautiful surroundings, and range of cultural and recreational options, I also see La Jolla - and the rest of San Diego - as a travel destination.

And what I see sometimes drives me batty. People flock to La Jolla, but don't take advantage of everything our community offers, so I decided to start this blog and provide a heads up for would-be visitors. The "inside scoop for out-of-towners," if you will.

Hey. I figure if I can write The Insider's Hong Kong (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/archives/february2006/travel.html) and The Insider's India (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/archives/october2007/travel.html), I ought to be able to lead readers off the beaten path that starts just outside my front door.

And in the process, I'm having fun revisiting my favorite places and discovering some new ones.

Travel writers are naturally snoopy, and this blog is my excuse to have a good ol' sticky beak around my home town. Stay tuned...

Larry King, spiny lobsters, and high tides

Visitors are welcome at these fall and winter La Jolla events:

If you'll be in town between now and November 1, I recommend you have a meal at Barbarella Restaurant in La Jolla Shores. Host Barbara Beltaire goes all out with spooky Halloween decorations - popular with kids and the young-at-heart.

Beltaire also serves great Italian meals - lunch and dinner seven days, plus breakfast on Saturdays and Sundays. Barbarella Restaurant & Bar is located at 2171 Avenida De La Playa (858- 454-7373).

If you're a diver and you'd rather catch your dinner, note that spiny lobster season in San Diego opened October 3 and runs through March 17, 2010.

"High-tide breakfasts" are a specialty at the oceanfront Marine Room restaurant. Scheduled to coincide with dramatic surf that brings waves right up to the big picture windows, the buffets will take place from 7 - 10:30 am on Oct. 17-18 and Nov. 14; 8 - 11am on Dec. 5; 10am - 2pm on Dec. 6; and 7 - 10am on Dec. 29 and 30. This is definitely one of San Diego's most memorable winter experiences. For more information go to www.MarineRoom.com or call 858-459-7222.

November 5: La Jolla Gallery Wine Walk. Taste the dining highlights of seaside La Jolla at this sixth annual gallery and restaurant walk, featuring 15 art galleries offering fine art and fine wine, along with more than 20 dining establishments serving samples of their specialties. 5 to 9 p.m. 619-233-5008, www.lajollabythesea.com/gallery.

The annual San Diego Jewish Book Fair, one of the top Jewish literacy events in the nation, will take place November 5-12 at the Lawrence Family Jewish Community Center. As I write this, it has just been announced that television veteran Larry King will speak on Sunday, November 8 at 12 noon. The JCC is located at 4126 Executive Drive. (858-457-3030, http://www.lfcc.org/)

November 21: La Jolla Antique Brewery Fest. The La Jolla Historical Society celebrates the best in brews--some first made in the 11th century--at this special event at Wisteria Cottage. Guests enjoy gourmet hors d’oeuvres, sample international suds from breweries in Belgium, England, Scotland, Germany and the Czech Republic and learn about beer’s history and its impact on society. 6 to 9 p.m. 780 Prospect Street, La Jolla, 858-459-5335, http://www.lajollahistory.org/.

The United States Tennis Association National 40 Hard Court Championships take place November 30 – December 6 at the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club in La Jolla. Spectators can watch the competition heat up during the men’s and women’s matches in singles, doubles and mixed doubles events for players over the age of 39. The event features former touring pros and the nation’s strongest players in this age group. For more information, visit http://www.ljbtc.com/.

You can also join locals at the very family-friendly La Jolla Christmas Parade & Holiday Festival (http://www.ljparade.com/) on December 6. The floats and bands roll right through town on Girard Avenue.

Even with the sun shining and the palm trees swaying - you'll swear you're in Middle America.

More Beaches, More Surf

If you like looking at beautiful beaches and have an extra vacation day, head north from La Jolla through the coastal communities of Del Mar, Solana Beach, Cardiff by the Sea, Encinitas, Leucadia, and Oceanside.

Of these, I think Swami's Beach in Encinitas is the most scenic. The best view of the surf and sand is from the garden at the Self-Realization Fellowship Retreat (http://www.yogananda-srf.org/temples/encinitas). You'll also have a good view from Sea Cliff Roadside Park, right off Highway 101. Swami's produces consistently good waves, and this park is a great place to experience North County's surf culture.

To hang with the locals for a while, treat yourself to coffee at the Pannikin Cafe (http://pannikincoffeeandtea.com) on the ocean side of Highway 101 in Encinitas. Housed in an historic Santa Fe Railway Station, built in 1888, the Pannikin is also known for their baked goods.

If you'd like a look at some Orange County beaches, take I-5 through Camp Pendleton, then turn onto Highway 1 at Dana Point. Laguna Nigel, Laguna Beach, and Newport Beach are more built up than San Diego coastal communities, but they all have great beaches. In Huntington Beach, north of Newport, the locals have managed to retain their all-surfing-all-the-time lifestyle.

Walk out onto the lovely old HB pier (built in 1904) and watch surfers riding waves back to the shore. This is the real "Surf City USA" - a fact that was proven in court where the words to the Beach Boys' song were offered as evidence. This is also a great spot to watch beach volleyball - and be sure to check out the International Surfing Museum (http://www.surfingmuseum.org/).

By the end of the day, you will have seen Southern California's most beautiful beaches and witnessed that, while Gidget may be past her prime, our surf culture is alive and well.

Which beach is your favorite? Please feel free to post a comment and share your opinion with other travelers.