La Jolla Shores vs. “the Village”

In addition to dispensing La Jolla travel information via this blog, I also answer questions on TripAdvisor’s La Jolla Forum. It’s recently become apparent on this site that many visitors aren’t aware that what we locals call “the village” is not the same place as “the Shores.”

The village (think Prospect Street and Girard Avenue) is great for shopping and dining, but (about a mile away) the Shores is THE PLACE for wiggling your toes in the sand, surfing, and kayaking. In addition, Avenida de La Playa – the main street in the Shores – is home to some of La Jolla’s best restaurants.

Admittedly, The Cove is great for snorkeling, but La Jolla Shores Beach is the best overall for families. Surf Diva (858-454-8273) offers surf lessons for females of all ages, and Menehune specializes in teaching kids to hang ten http://www.menehunesurf.com/ Kayak rentals are available at La Jolla Kayak (2199 Avenida de La Playa, 858-459-1114; http://www.lajollakayak.com/).

Most folks seem to know that The La Jolla Shores Hotel (http://www.ljshoreshotel.com/) is right on the beach. In addition, you might consider staying at the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club. It's right next door and offers free parking, as well as a private, less crowded beach. Their website is http://www.ljbtc.com/

The “B&T” is primarily a private club, but savvy visitors can take advantage of the resort’s wide variety of accommodations, including two-bedroom, two-bath units.

I live about a mile from La Jolla Shores Beach and walk along this beautiful stretch of sand several times a week year around.

I also dine in the Shores regularly. My favorite place is Osteria Romantica, 2151 Avenida de la Playa, Tel 858-551-1221, http://www.osteriaromantica.com/

Book early for dinner during the summer. It’s easier to get a table at lunch because all the nearby parking is consumed by beach-goers. Osteria Romantica’s food is great, and I love the waiters – imported directly from Italy.

Fabio and his staff will make you feel like familia. .

Roppongi Restaurant & Sushi Bar

“The best deal in town.” That’s how a friend described the happy hour menu at La Jolla's Roppongi Restaurant & Sushi Bar – so of course I had to go and check it out. And sure enough, my beloved Chinese pot stickers filled with shrimp and scallops and served with Tobiko caviar sauce, normally $14.25, are now half price between 3- 6 daily. Ditto the delicious pan seared sea scallops on potato pancakes.

In fact, all the tapas and sushi rolls are half price during those hours. Sadly, drinks are not discounted.

Roppongi, long a favorite with locals, is located on the corner of Prospect Street and Fay Avenue. You can view the entire menu at http://www.roppongi.com/ (858-551-5252).

The Zagat Survey praised the restaurant for its “unique new Asian cuisine,” but I am also very impressed with the design, which includes a large fire pit on the patio and sophisticated lighting indoors that shows off a beautiful collection of Asian artifacts.

In addition to tapas, the restaurant serves lunch and dinner. They are for sure offering a prix fixe Father’s Day dinner on June 21, but the end date for the half price happy hour munchies has not been announced. I just hope it’s still in effect when you’re in La Jolla. Bargains are few and far between around here – and I’d hate for you to miss this one.

Beyond the Garden Gates

If you hurry, you can still get tickets to the Secret Garden Tour of Old La Jolla taking place on May 9. This very popular annual event, sponsored by the La Jolla Historical Society, provides locals and visitors a chance to tour the spring gardens of seven beautiful homes in our community.

If you’ve spent any time in La Jolla, you know that many of the truly grand houses with the most remarkable landscaping are hidden behinds gates and walls – so this self-guided tour presents a unique opportunity.

The location of the gardens isn’t disclosed until the day of the tour – that’s the “secret” part – but they are always stunning.

In addition to manicured trees, flowers, and shrubs, each home will offer live music, colorful table settings, and artists at work capturing the scene on canvas.

To buy tickets, call the La Jolla Historical Society at 858-459-5335 or go to http://www.lajollahistory.org/. Regular tickets are $50 (or $40 for members of the Historical Society). Tickets for the Platinum Tour, which includes shuttle transportation to the gardens, one extra oceanfront garden, and brunch in a historical garden, cost $150 (or $140 for members).

The Children's Pool Has Gone to the Dogs....er Seals

To fully appreciate La Jolla's Children's Pool - the lovely little cove along Coast Boulevard where the seals hang out - it helps to know the back story.

In 1931, philanthropist Ellen Browning Scripps funded the construction of a sea wall around the cove so that La Jolla kids would have a safe place to swim. All was well until about ten years ago when seal numbers in the area increased noticeably and, in fact, the area became a rookery.

At this point, some La Jollans began defending the rights of the seals and others became very vociferous about how this should be a place for children, blah, blah, blah. At times the battle bordered on ridiculous and, of course, it ended up in court.

The city (remember, La Jolla is part of San Diego) roped off the area so that humans couldn't pester the seals, but in 2005 a judge ordered the rope removed. The judge also directed the city to reduce the bacteria level in the area so that it would be safe for swimming.

The California Supreme Court has refused to overturn the ruling, and to dredge or not to dredge is hotly debated every week in the two La Jolla newspapers. In the meantime, pro-seal volunteers patrol the area 24/7 and answer visitors' questions.

March and April are great months to visit the Children's Pool because it's pupping season - and while you're there, you might say thanks to the seal's tireless supporters.

La Taverna

La Jolla has lots of “destination restaurants” that serve good food – and sometimes a view – to out-of-towners.

Then there are the restaurants the locals patronize…places that depend on return business and don’t have a vista to distract from other weaknesses. One of these is La Taverna – snuggled between a dry cleaners and a shoe repair shop at 927 Silverado Street (858-454-0100; http://www.lataverna.com/).

The tiny restaurant offers only a half dozen tables inside and about the same number on a sidewalk patio. The menu of Italian comfort food includes grilled salmon on white bean salad (my favorite), pan-roasted shrimp with garlic and arugula-basil pesto, Parmesan chicken on roasted garlic mashed potatoes, and other satisfying dishes.

At La Taverna, everything is made on site, including wonderful bread, sausages, and gnocchi. If you go, leave room for dessert. The restaurant's multi-layer banana cake is the stuff of legends. Lunch is served Monday - Friday and dinner is Monday - Saturday.

Chef/Proprietor Mary Ann Vitale also owns Sorella della Taverna (7420 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858-866-6400), a deli where locals load up on items such as eggplant lasagna, penne pasta, and grilled vegetables. She also offers salads, sandwiches, and pizza. This gourmet-to-go spot is the perfect place for assembling an extraordinary picnic. They're open 10-5 Monday - Friday during the summer. Best to call for winter hours.

Bon appetito.

La Jolla Farmers' Market

The La Jolla farmers' market is a perfect example of a really cool thing that doesn't get on the radar screen of most visitors. It's held every Sunday from 9am - 1pm on the playground of La Jolla Elementary on "upper Girard." That's the part of our main drag that extends south of Pearl Street.

The market - officially it's the "La Jolla Elementary Open Aire Market" - is popular with lots of locals who are there every week stocking up on fruit, veggies, and flowers. However, even if you are traveling and not cooking (hey, I live here and don't cook) there are lots of other reasons to go.

Personally, I love the jewelry - especially the fact that if I see something I like, but it's not exactly what I want, the artisan will often offer to take a custom order. Even the woman who sells the Deruta pottery wrote down the description of the planter I wanted and brought it back from Italy on her next trip. Other vendors sell colorful cotton tablecloths, Oriental rugs, handmade pottery, and a wide range of clever clothing.

The market is also a great place to find gourmet food items - to keep or to gift. I often buy the flavored olive oil, the handcrafted salsa, and the organic salad dressing. Having said that, in truth, my favorite market foods are the highly-addictive kettle corn and anything from Charlie's Best Breads.

More than 75 vendors set up stalls every week. Another ten or so, set up mini-kitchens. I don't know how they manage in such small spaces, but I've had some great Mexican dishes from this mobile food court, as well as crepes, gyros, kebabs, and barbecued chicken. The shaded picnic tables also make a good spot for people watching.

It's a bit of a carnival really. Serious foodies march from stall to stall procuring ingredients; kids run wild in the play area; folks stand in line for a chair massage; and live music puts a smile on everyone's face.

It can be crowded, and you may have to maneuver around baby strollers and step over a few dog leashes, but if you go, you'll see why it's my favorite slice of La Jolla life.

Inside Scoop on the US Open

I live in La Jolla and I'm a travel writer. What that means is that, in addition to enjoying my home town's great weather, beautiful surroundings, and range of cultural and recreational options, I also see La Jolla as a travel destination. And what I see sometimes drives me batty.

People flock to La Jolla, but don't take advantage of everything our community offers. So I decided to start this blog and provide a head's up for would-be visitors. The "inside scoop," if you will.

Hey. I figure if I can write The Insider's Hong Kong (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/february2006/travel.html) and The Insider's India (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/october2007/travel.html), I ought to be able to lead readers off the beaten path that starts just outside my front door. And why shouldn't I? I'm lucky enough to live here...consider this payback.

OK. So now we're bracing for the US Open (June 12 -15). The USGA capped ticket sales at 42,500 a day, and they went fast. However, if you are ticket-less and want to attend there's still hope. San Diego Golf Reservations (866-701-4653, http://www.sandiegogolf.com/) still has tickets to sell. Of course the price is marked up, but do you want to go or not?

The other option, is to take advantage of the packages being offered by The Grand Del Mar, a fairly new very grand resort about 15 minutes north of La Jolla. They are offering packages with and without accommodation that include tickets. Again, this isn't an inexpensive option.

Their US Open Grand Access Package includes a one-night stay and admission for two to the US Open on the following day. Rates start at $605 per person (888-314-2030, http://www.thegranddelmar.com/).

Their US Open VIP View Package includes one-day admission to the Open; access to the Manchester Pavilion VIP Hospitality Tent on the 10th Fairway; daily breakfast, lunch, cocktails, and dinner inside the Pavilion; preferred parking; and access to the onsite business center. Weeklong packages start at $3,300 per person, but daily rates are also available. Contact Rob Sterling at 858-314-2055.

More later.