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Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Why am I doing this?

I live in La Jolla and I'm a travel writer.

What that means is that, in addition to enjoying my home town's great weather, beautiful surroundings, and range of cultural and recreational options, I also see La Jolla - and the rest of San Diego - as a travel destination.

And what I see sometimes drives me batty. People flock to La Jolla, but don't take advantage of everything our community offers, so I decided to start this blog and provide a heads up for would-be visitors. The "inside scoop for out-of-towners," if you will.

Hey. I figure if I can write The Insider's Hong Kong (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/archives/february2006/travel.html) and The Insider's India (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/archives/october2007/travel.html), I ought to be able to lead readers off the beaten path that starts just outside my front door.

And in the process, I'm having fun revisiting my favorite places and discovering some new ones.

Travel writers are naturally snoopy, and this blog is my excuse to have a good ol' sticky beak around my home town. Stay tuned...

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Sunday, September 20, 2009

La Jolla Art & Wine Festival


Shopping opportunities draw visitors to Girard Avenue every day, but this will be especially true on Saturday and Sunday, October 10 and 11, from 9am - 5pm. The La Jolla Art & Wine Festival will showcase the work of 300 artists from Southern California and Northern Baja (selected by jury).

The street fair will take place on upper Girard Avenue, between Pearl and Genter, and will include live entertainment and a wine and beer garden (11am - 5pm). To date, six local wineries and Ballast Point Brewery (http://www.ballastpoint.com/) are participating.

Admission is $7 for adults, $3 for children age 3-12; and free for age 2 and under. All proceeds benefit underfunded programs at three local public schools. The Open Aire Market on the La Jolla Elementary School playground will remain free of charge on Sunday.

For more information, see http://www.lajollaartandwinefestival.com/ or email info@lajollaartandwinefestival.com

This is going to be a wonderful community event and out-of-towners are welcome to join the fun.
Photo courtesy Milagro Farm Vineyards & Winery

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Tuesday, September 15, 2009

In Search of the Best Beach


Even though I live here, La Jolla’s beautiful beaches still take my breath away. To best sure you see the most scenic viewpoints, follow this route:

Starting at the south end of La Jolla - at La Jolla Boulevard and La Cañada Street - take La Cañada towards the ocean. You’ll have a good view of Bird Rock – literally a big rock offshore covered with birds – on your left just after you pass Avenida Cresta. This landmark gives its name to the surrounding neighborhood and is a popular surfing spot.

Continue north on Camino de la Costa, past a gaggle of beautiful homes, and jog left at Palomar Avenue. Now you’re on Neptune Place - witnessing drop-dead gorgeous Windansea Beach. The surf shack on the beach is a designated historical landmark. For decades, Windansea’s surf has attracted the world’s best riders. It was also featured in Tom Wolfe's book The Pump House Gang. For more information, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windansea_Beach

As you follow the coast, you'll pass the Children's Pool (see my April 6 post: “The Children's Pool Has Gone to the Dogs....er Seals”) en route to the La Jolla Cove. From here, walk along Coast Walk (a pedestrians only dirt trail). The path, which starts to the left of The Cave Store (http://www.cavestore.com/), offers one of the most beautiful blue-water vistas in our Golden State.

After stretching your legs, take Prospect Street to Torrey Pines Road and make a left turn. Turn left again onto Princess Street and you’ll find yourself passing the Marine Room, home to the best beachfront dining in town (http://www.marineroom.com/).

Continue along the water, past the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club (http://www.ljbtc.com/) to La Jolla Shores Beach – another great spot for walking and very popular with kayakers.

To see more beaches, continue up La Jolla Shores Drive and turn left onto North Torrey Pines Road. Turn left at Torrey Pines Scenic Drive and follow signs to the Torrey Pines Gliderport (www.flytorrey.com). This spot offers a rare up-close-and-personal view of hang gliders and paragliders (tandem rides offered for the uninitiated). It is also my favorite off-the-beaten-path place for lunch. (See June 2 post: “A Picnic Table with a View.”)

From the Gliderport, continue north on Torrey Pines Road for a beautiful view of Torrey Pines State Beach. The Reserve (http://www.torreypine.org/) above the beach offers more great views...guaranteed to take your breath away.

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Friday, July 31, 2009

La Jolla Shores vs. “the Village”


In addition to dispensing La Jolla travel information via this blog, I also answer questions on TripAdvisor’s La Jolla Forum. It’s recently become apparent on this site that many visitors aren’t aware that what we locals call “the village” is not the same place as “the Shores.”

The village (think Prospect Street and Girard Avenue) is great for shopping and dining, but (about a mile away) the Shores is THE PLACE for wiggling your toes in the sand, surfing, and kayaking. In addition, Avenida de La Playa – the main street in the Shores – is home to some of La Jolla’s best restaurants.

Admittedly, The Cove is great for snorkeling, but La Jolla Shores Beach is the best overall for families. Surf Diva (858-454-8273) offers surf lessons for females of all ages, and Menehune specializes in teaching kids to hang ten http://www.menehunesurf.com/ Kayak rentals are available at La Jolla Kayak (2199 Avenida de La Playa, 858-459-1114; http://www.lajollakayak.com/).

Most folks seem to know that The La Jolla Shores Hotel (http://www.ljshoreshotel.com/) is right on the beach. In addition, you might consider staying at the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club. It's right next door and offers free parking, as well as a private, less crowded beach. Their website is http://www.ljbtc.com/

The “B&T” is primarily a private club, but savvy visitors can take advantage of the resort’s wide variety of accommodations, including two-bedroom, two-bath units.

I live about a mile from La Jolla Shores Beach and walk along this beautiful stretch of sand several times a week year around.

I also dine in the Shores regularly. My favorite place is Osteria Romantica, 2151 Avenida de la Playa, Tel 858-551-1221, http://www.osteriaromantica.com/

Book early for dinner during the summer. It’s easier to get a table at lunch because all the nearby parking is consumed by beach-goers. Osteria Romantica’s food is great, and I love the waiters – imported directly from Italy.

Fabio and his staff will make you feel like familia. .

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Thursday, May 21, 2009

Roppongi Restaurant & Sushi Bar

“The best deal in town.” That’s how a friend described the happy hour menu at La Jolla's Roppongi Restaurant & Sushi Bar – so of course I had to go and check it out. And sure enough, my beloved Chinese pot stickers filled with shrimp and scallops and served with Tobiko caviar sauce, normally $14.25, are now half price between 3- 6 daily. Ditto the delicious pan seared sea scallops on potato pancakes.

In fact, all the tapas and sushi rolls are half price during those hours. Sadly, drinks are not discounted.

Roppongi, long a favorite with locals, is located on the corner of Prospect Street and Fay Avenue. You can view the entire menu at http://www.roppongi.com/ (858-551-5252).

The Zagat Survey praised the restaurant for its “unique new Asian cuisine,” but I am also very impressed with the design, which includes a large fire pit on the patio and sophisticated lighting indoors that shows off a beautiful collection of Asian artifacts.

In addition to tapas, the restaurant serves lunch and dinner. They are for sure offering a prix fixe Father’s Day dinner on June 21, but the end date for the half price happy hour munchies has not been announced. I just hope it’s still in effect when you’re in La Jolla. Bargains are few and far between around here – and I’d hate for you to miss this one.

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Monday, April 20, 2009

Don’t Wait – the Cows Are Mooving On


“Whacky” is not a word usually used to describe La Jolla, but since the arrival of 40 artfully-painted full-size bovines – it’s the perfect descriptor. The colorful fiberglass cows are on display throughout the village and they make me – and a lot of other people – smile as we go about our business.

The mod moo moos were painted by local artists, and will eventually be auctioned to raise funds for Rady Children’s Hospital and the San Diego Zoo. In the meantime, you can go to http://www.cowparadelajolla.com/ for more information and a map of their locations.

My favorite, "Designer Genes" wears trendy denim pants, bright red lipstick, and yellow star earrings. Across the street, on the corner of Girard Avenue and Wall Street, “Digesting the News” appears to have eaten so much newspaper that his body is covered in black-and-white sections. In contrast, “Cowsablanca” has blue legs, a purple face, and a green, red, and orange body.

“Public art” often conjures up images of serious bronze figures that add gravitas to a site, but these fashionistas are whacky – and I love it.

CowParade was started in Chicago in 1999, and since then herds have turned up in 50 cities on six continents, including New York, Paris, London, and Mexico City.

La Jolla’s cows are mooving on June 15, and you really don’t want to miss seeing them. They’re udderly adorable.

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Monday, August 11, 2008

La Taverna


La Jolla has lots of “destination restaurants” that serve good food – and sometimes a view – to out-of-towners.

Then there are the restaurants the locals patronize…places that depend on return business and don’t have a vista to distract from other weaknesses. One of these is La Taverna – snuggled between a dry cleaners and a shoe repair shop at 927 Silverado Street (858-454-0100; http://www.lataverna.com/).

The tiny restaurant offers only a half dozen tables inside and about the same number on a sidewalk patio. The menu of Italian comfort food includes grilled salmon on white bean salad (my favorite), pan-roasted shrimp with garlic and arugula-basil pesto, Parmesan chicken on roasted garlic mashed potatoes, and other satisfying dishes.

At La Taverna, everything is made on site, including wonderful bread, sausages, and gnocchi. If you go, leave room for dessert. The restaurant's multi-layer banana cake is the stuff of legends. Lunch is served Monday - Friday and dinner is Monday - Saturday.


Chef/Proprietor Mary Ann Vitale also owns Sorella della Taverna (7420 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858-866-6400), a deli where locals load up on items such as eggplant lasagna, penne pasta, and grilled vegetables. She also offers salads, sandwiches, and pizza. This gourmet-to-go spot is the perfect place for assembling an extraordinary picnic. They're open 10-5 Monday - Friday during the summer. Best to call for winter hours.


Bon appetito.

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Monday, July 7, 2008

The La Jolla Rough Water Swim


America's Premier Rough Water Swim takes place at the La Jolla Cove every year on the first Sunday in September - that's the 7th this year. Not being a competitive swimmer, I'd never made an effort to attend, but having once seen it "by accident," I'm a regular spectator now.

More than 2,000 swimmers churning up the water make for a memorable sight. Most of them follow a triangular one-mile course, but elite swimmers opt for a more grueling Gatorman three-mile challenge. Juniors have a 250-yard option.

This event has been part of La Jolla's history since 1916, and it's taken place almost every year since 1931. (Concerns about polio and sharks caused cancellations in 1948 and 1959 respectively.)

If I hadn't been having Sunday brunch with friends at Azul La Jolla (1250 Prospect, tel. 858-454-9616, www.brigantine.com/locations_azul.html), I wouldn't have realized what I was missing. I still think Azul is the best viewpoint - so book early and request a window table. They open for brunch at 10am.

My other favorite annual event is the La Jolla Christmas Parade - which will take place this year on December 7. More about that later.

For lotso info on the Rough Water Swim, go to http://www.ljrws.com/.

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Sunday, May 18, 2008

La Jolla Farmers' Market


The La Jolla farmers' market is a perfect example of a really cool thing that doesn't get on the radar screen of most visitors. It's held every Sunday from 9am - 1pm on the playground of La Jolla Elementary on "upper Girard." That's the part of our main drag that extends south of Pearl Street.

The market - officially it's the "La Jolla Elementary Open Aire Market" - is popular with lots of locals who are there every week stocking up on fruit, veggies, and flowers. However, even if you are traveling and not cooking (hey, I live here and don't cook) there are lots of other reasons to go.

Personally, I love the jewelry - especially the fact that if I see something I like, but it's not exactly what I want, the artisan will often offer to take a custom order. Even the woman who sells the Deruta pottery wrote down the description of the planter I wanted and brought it back from Italy on her next trip. Other vendors sell colorful cotton tablecloths, Oriental rugs, handmade pottery, and a wide range of clever clothing.

The market is also a great place to find gourmet food items - to keep or to gift. I often buy the flavored olive oil, the handcrafted salsa, and the organic salad dressing. Having said that, in truth, my favorite market foods are the highly-addictive kettle corn and anything from Charlie's Best Breads.

More than 75 vendors set up stalls every week. Another ten or so, set up mini-kitchens. I don't know how they manage in such small spaces, but I've had some great Mexican dishes from this mobile food court, as well as crepes, gyros, kebabs, and barbecued chicken. The shaded picnic tables also make a good spot for people watching.

It's a bit of a carnival really. Serious foodies march from stall to stall procuring ingredients; kids run wild in the play area; folks stand in line for a chair massage; and live music puts a smile on everyone's face.

It can be crowded, and you may have to maneuver around baby strollers and step over a few dog leashes, but if you go, you'll see why it's my favorite slice of La Jolla life.

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Monday, May 5, 2008

Inside Scoop on the US Open


I live in La Jolla and I'm a travel writer. What that means is that, in addition to enjoying my home town's great weather, beautiful surroundings, and range of cultural and recreational options, I also see La Jolla as a travel destination. And what I see sometimes drives me batty.

People flock to La Jolla, but don't take advantage of everything our community offers. So I decided to start this blog and provide a head's up for would-be visitors. The "inside scoop," if you will.

Hey. I figure if I can write The Insider's Hong Kong (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/february2006/travel.html) and The Insider's India (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/october2007/travel.html), I ought to be able to lead readers off the beaten path that starts just outside my front door. And why shouldn't I? I'm lucky enough to live here...consider this payback.

OK. So now we're bracing for the US Open (June 12 -15). The USGA capped ticket sales at 42,500 a day, and they went fast. However, if you are ticket-less and want to attend there's still hope. San Diego Golf Reservations (866-701-4653, http://www.sandiegogolf.com/) still has tickets to sell. Of course the price is marked up, but do you want to go or not?

The other option, is to take advantage of the packages being offered by The Grand Del Mar, a fairly new very grand resort about 15 minutes north of La Jolla. They are offering packages with and without accommodation that include tickets. Again, this isn't an inexpensive option.

Their US Open Grand Access Package includes a one-night stay and admission for two to the US Open on the following day. Rates start at $605 per person (888-314-2030, http://www.thegranddelmar.com/).

Their US Open VIP View Package includes one-day admission to the Open; access to the Manchester Pavilion VIP Hospitality Tent on the 10th Fairway; daily breakfast, lunch, cocktails, and dinner inside the Pavilion; preferred parking; and access to the onsite business center. Weeklong packages start at $3,300 per person, but daily rates are also available. Contact Rob Sterling at 858-314-2055.

More later.

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