La Jolla Sky Tour

I thought I knew La Jolla, but something happened last week that has given me a new perspective.

I flew over my hometown of several decades – not in a big jet that was in a hurry to get someplace, but in a five-seat Piper Seneca with time to meander along the coast.

The scenic flight was a way of introducing out-of-town guests to the area, but I almost think I enjoyed the aerial view more than they did.

I picked out my favorite landmarks and saw how things fit together – where the country club is in relation to the village, how close Torrey Pines State Park is to the gliderport and the golf course, that kind of thing. I’ve driven past these places hundreds of times, but the birds-eye view was both beautiful and instructive

I came away feeling very lucky to live here – and very glad that our home is not clinging to a sandstone cliff.

We booked the tour through Air2Air (http://www.air2aircorp.com/) and President Michael Doerr was our pilot. I felt totally safe, especially after he mentioned that he formerly flew jets out of Miramar and was a Captain at Northwest Airlines for 19 years.

The twin-engine light aircraft is fixed with comfortable club seating, which enables business passengers to hold mini-meetings en route to their destination. It also makes it easy for sightseers to point things out to each other and pass cameras back and forth.

The flight left from Palomar Airport and, after cruising the La Jolla coast, continued over Lindbergh Field and Coronado to South Bay. The panorama of downtown San Diego gives meaning to the term “urban resort,” and I loved that someone had written a huge “Coronado” in the sand in front of the Hotel del.

I’ve often been asked about the best view points in La Jolla and other parts of San Diego, and I’ve hesitated, qualified my reply, and felt the need to explain – but from now on, I know what my answer will be.

Where NOT to eat in La Jolla

This won't make me popular with a couple of local restaurateurs, but I have had two very disappointing meals in the village recently.

Until they mend their ways (hire a new chef?), I suggest you avoid Bistro 101 and Alfonso's - both restaurants are on Prospect Street.

I don't like reporting negative experiences, but the whole point of this blog is to help you get the most out of your time in La Jolla -- and that includes leading you away from cold soup and cardboard burritos.

B&B On the Sea

If you want romantic lodging with one of San Diego's best views – you can’t do better than this historic cottage on a bluff overlooking the beach in La Jolla. In contrast to a hotel, this cozy spot offers all the comforts of home while still affording plenty of privacy.

The Master Bedroom ($295) has a large wooden deck where guests can enjoy a glass of wine and watch the sun set over the ocean. The Captain’s Room ($225) offers a balcony with the same big blue vista. The Overflow Room ($125), with twin beds, is great when 5 or 6 people are traveling together.

These rates, which vary somewhat by season, include breakfast in the elegant dining room and wine and cheese served at 4pm. Guests also have the use of the living room, although the bedrooms each have their own TVs and wireless Internet.

“Historic La Jolla Cove Cottage,” as it is sometimes known, dates from 1924, when it was the first home built on this block. It’s just recently been reconfigured into a B&B and, due to its amazing location, is booking out fast.

Owners Laura Barton Williams and Mary Ruth Barton live on the premises and are fonts of information on the area’s history. Laura’s grandfather bought the house in 1957. A selection of his books and historic memorabilia line the shelves in the reading alcove of the Master Bedroom.

To make reservations, go to http://www.bartonrentals.com/ or call 858-454-4822.

B&B On the Sea offers the best of both worlds – La Jolla history in a scenic location and very comfortable accommodations.

La Jolla Lodging By Location

Where you stay in La Jolla will influence your vacation more than any other factor, so I want to make sure you find just the right hotel, motel, B&B, or resort.

LA JOLLA HOTEL RESERVATIONS

Before you make a decision, check out the deals offered via the “reservation box” in the top right corner of this blog. You may be surprised to find that La Jolla has cheap places to stay, as well as luxury hotels, suites, and spas. San Diego Hotel Week (http://www.sandiegohotelweek.com/) is another good source of bargain beds.

What follows below is a listing of local accommodation, grouped by neighborhood. I’ll follow up with details on the various places as time permits. In the meantime, check out the map at http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=102753819517919873889.00044c7eebf5647208f7d&ll=32.847866,-117.232361&spn=0.138446,0.219727&z=12&source=embed

North Torrey Pines Road

This is a great area if you want to play golf or watch a tournament at the beautiful Torrey Pines Golf Course. However, both of these luxury resorts sit atop sandstone cliffs, making them a poor choice for beach-goers. A car is a must here because a taxi into the village for shopping and dining costs about $20 each way.

• Hilton La Jolla Torrey Pines
• The Lodge at Torrey Pines

Near the University of California San Diego

Easy access to UCSD is the big draw for these three hotels. Estancia is on North Torrey Pines Road, but the Sheraton and the Residence Inn are within walking distance of places to eat and a couple of shopping centers that include a movie theatre, Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s, etc.

• Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa
• Sheraton La Jolla Hotel
• Residence Inn

East of I-5, On La Jolla Village Drive

By definition, these places are not in La Jolla, but they are close enough to be of interest. The Embassy Suites and the Marriott are across the street from University Towne Center. Having said that, travelers don’t come to La Jolla to spend time in a mall, so you’ll need a car if you stay in this area.

• Embassy Suites – San Diego
• Marriott – San Diego La Jolla
• Hyatt Regency La Jolla at Aventine

La Jolla Shores

Now we’re getting to the fun stuff. I walk on La Jolla Shores Beach several times a week and never tire of watching surfers, kayakers and kids digging holes in the sand. In addition to the beach, the Shores has its own little restaurant row and a handful of kayak rental places and beachy stores. I wrote about the difference between The Shores and The Village on July 31, 2009, so flip over to that post for a more complete description.

• Hotel La Jolla at The Shores
• La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club
• La Jolla Riviera Apartments
• La Jolla Shores Hotel (formerly The Sea Lodge)

The Village

La Jolla’s heart has it all: charm and personality, myriad dining options, great shopping, the postcard-perfect La Jolla Cove, a world-class art museum, a seal colony, fantastic ocean views…and almost enough parking for the folks who want to enjoy our little seaside community. In fact, in this neighborhood, being car-less has its advantages.

• B & B on the Sea
• Best Western Inn By the Sea
• Empress Hotel
• Hotel Parisi
• La Jolla Cove Suites
• La Jolla Inn
• La Jolla Village Lodge
• La Valencia
• The Bed & Breakfast Inn at La Jolla (pictured above)
• The Grand Colonial
• Redwood Hollow Cottages
• Scripps Inn
• Shell Beach Motel

La Jolla Boulevard

South of the Village, a few motels provide budget lodgings within walking distance of the beach. This area (south of Nautilus Street) also includes places to eat, and the number 30 bus that runs on La Jolla Boulevard is useful for getting into the village or further a field to San Diego attractions (http://www.sdcommute.com/).

• Holiday Inn Express
• La Jolla Beach Travelodge

San Diego Food Finds

My friend Maria Desiderata Montana writes a blog about San Diego restaurants, and I want you to know about it should you decide to venture outside La Jolla for a meal.

San Diego Food Finds (http://www.sandiegofoodfinds.com/) includes restaurant profiles for great places to eat all over San Diego County. Some of my favorites are: Fidel's (Mexican) in Solana Beach, Quarter Kitchen in downtown San Diego, and Con Pane (bakery/cafe) in Point Loma.

Maria is Italian, and in "cent’anni" (Italian for "May you live 100 years"), she shares recipes from her own kitchen as well as some of her chef friends. Her site also keeps foodies up-to-speed on local food "happenings."

I know La Jolla inside and out, but when I have a need to eat elsewhere, I rely on Maria's sage advice.

Pictured above: Seared Hamachi with fresh arugula salad and strawberries, available at The Loft restaurant at the Montage Laguna Beach. (Photo by Maria Desiderata Montana)

Why am I doing this?

I live in La Jolla and I'm a travel writer.

What that means is that, in addition to enjoying my home town's great weather, beautiful surroundings, and range of cultural and recreational options, I also see La Jolla - and the rest of San Diego - as a travel destination.

And what I see sometimes drives me batty. People flock to La Jolla, but don't take advantage of everything our community offers, so I decided to start this blog and provide a heads up for would-be visitors. The "inside scoop for out-of-towners," if you will.

Hey. I figure if I can write The Insider's Hong Kong (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/archives/february2006/travel.html) and The Insider's India (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/archives/october2007/travel.html), I ought to be able to lead readers off the beaten path that starts just outside my front door.

And in the process, I'm having fun revisiting my favorite places and discovering some new ones.

Travel writers are naturally snoopy, and this blog is my excuse to have a good ol' sticky beak around my home town. Stay tuned...

Update on Sorella della Taverna

I wrote about La Taverna and its sister property Sorella della Taverna in August 2008. The former is a cute little Italian bistro on a side street in the village. Sorella is a gourmet deli that provides take-away meals and delicious picnic fare.

I'm happy to report that both businesses are still going strong, and Mary Anne Vitale has just set her winter hours for Sorella. They are: Monday- Friday 8:30am - 6pm and Sunday 9am- 2pm.

Sorella della Taverna (7420 Girard) is within a block of the Sunday Farmers Market (one of San Diego's best), which makes it a handy place to pick up whatever you couldn't find at one of their many food booths - and head to a park or the beach for a picnic. The most popular items are homemade pastries, fresh-baked bread, pasta salad, mozzarella, and prosciutto. Call 858-866-6400 if you have questions.

Bon appetito.

La Jolla Art & Wine Festival

Shopping opportunities draw visitors to Girard Avenue every day, but this will be especially true on Saturday and Sunday, October 10 and 11, from 9am - 5pm. The La Jolla Art & Wine Festival will showcase the work of 300 artists from Southern California and Northern Baja (selected by jury).

The street fair will take place on upper Girard Avenue, between Pearl and Genter, and will include live entertainment and a wine and beer garden (11am - 5pm). To date, six local wineries and Ballast Point Brewery (http://www.ballastpoint.com/) are participating.

Admission is $7 for adults, $3 for children age 3-12; and free for age 2 and under. All proceeds benefit underfunded programs at three local public schools. The Open Aire Market on the La Jolla Elementary School playground will remain free of charge on Sunday.

For more information, see http://www.lajollaartandwinefestival.com/ or email info@lajollaartandwinefestival.com

This is going to be a wonderful community event and out-of-towners are welcome to join the fun.

Photo courtesy Milagro Farm Vineyards & Winery

Can I Offer You a Cocktail?

La Jolla is not lacking in adult beverage venues. In fact, “let’s meet for a drink” is often followed by a not-short discussion of where-to-go options.

Because of their specialty cocktails, Whisknladle (http://www.whisknladle.com/) is one of San Diego's most popular spots. Here, Mixologist Ian Ward infuses drinks with flavors of – among others – lavender, cinnamon, and cilantro.

If a Ginger Margarita served with Herradura Silver tequila, ginger gastrique, and a spiced rim sounds good – then pull up a stool at this Wall Street hangout. The drinks pictured to the right are a lavender cosmopolitan and a hibiscus margarita. Happy hour happens 7 days a week from 5-7pm, and during this time Mediterranean tapas go for $2 each.

Prospect Bar & Grill (http://www.prospectbar.com/) is another hot spot. Located at the top of the escalator above Prospect Street, this is the place for live music and dancing. Free salsa lessons are offered on Mondays. Check out the Events Calendar on their website for information on NFL Sundays, open mic nights, and more.

A couple of blocks down the street, Nine-Ten in the Grande Colonial Hotel (http://www.nine-ten.com/) is a classy place for a quiet-ish drink. Happy hour is Monday to Friday 3:30 – 7pm.

Cheers!

La Jolla Farmers’ Market - Part 2

I know I already posted about the La Jolla Farmers’ Market (May 2008), but recently I discovered some exciting new vendors with remarkable products, and I can’t stop myself from telling you about them.

First, the darling Swiss couple pictured to the right are serving authentic birchermuesli and a wonderful apple pastry. After consuming both items, I considered yodeling to show my enthusiasm.

I also sampled at 410 Degrees (http://www.410degrees.com/) where Derek Jaeger and his partner Adam Koven produce the most delicious cookies I have ever tasted – and that’s a lot (which explains why I am not a size 8.)

Consider this: their signature PB Overload contains Reese’s chips and a thick peanut butter crème. The lemon basil cookie is made with candied macadamia nuts and dried berries. I could go on, but writing about them is activating my sweet tooth. Check out their website and then taste the real thing at the market.

On the non-food side of things: Toni Renier at Square Meadows (http://www.squaremeadows.com/) is a photographer who transfers her images to tiles that can be used for table tops, tile walls, or decorative floors. She also puts her pictures on tee-shirts, coffee mugs, greeting cards, and other personalized gifts. In addition, she can use your photos in any of these applications.

Wendy Telford (http://www.telfordimports.com/) travels to Italy and brings home beautiful hand-painted ceramics that are both useful and decorative.

Having raved about muesli, and cookies, and ceramics – I have to tell you that the most memorable vender was Omar Sao, selling fabulous colorful African baskets.

“The women in my village made baskets and let me sell them to pay my tuition. Now I’ve graduated and I’m still selling baskets and sending the money to them,” he told me. “Many people rely on the money I send, so I have to sell a lot of baskets.”

That shouldn't be hard because these baskets are really stunning.

The Market (http://www.lajollamarket.com/) takes place every Sunday from 9am to 1pm on the playground of La Jolla Elementary School on upper Girard (in the village).

Go – and treat yourself to some birchermuesli. Then do something nice for the women in Omar’s village.

In Search of the Best Beach

Even though I live here, La Jolla’s beautiful beaches still take my breath away. To best sure you see the most scenic viewpoints, follow this route:

Starting at the south end of La Jolla - at La Jolla Boulevard and La Cañada Street - take La Cañada towards the ocean. You’ll have a good view of Bird Rock – literally a big rock offshore covered with birds – on your left just after you pass Avenida Cresta. This landmark gives its name to the surrounding neighborhood and is a popular surfing spot.

Continue north on Camino de la Costa, past a gaggle of beautiful homes, and jog left at Palomar Avenue. Now you’re on Neptune Place - witnessing drop-dead gorgeous Windansea Beach. The surf shack on the beach is a designated historical landmark. For decades, Windansea’s surf has attracted the world’s best riders. It was also featured in Tom Wolfe's book The Pump House Gang. For more information, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windansea_Beach

As you follow the coast, you'll pass the Children's Pool (see my April 6 post: “The Children's Pool Has Gone to the Dogs....er Seals”) en route to the La Jolla Cove. From here, walk along Coast Walk (a pedestrians only dirt trail). The path, which starts to the left of The Cave Store (http://www.cavestore.com/), offers one of the most beautiful blue-water vistas in our Golden State.

After stretching your legs, take Prospect Street to Torrey Pines Road and make a left turn. Turn left again onto Princess Street and you’ll find yourself passing the Marine Room, home to the best beachfront dining in town (http://www.marineroom.com/).

Continue along the water, past the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club (http://www.ljbtc.com/) to La Jolla Shores Beach – another great spot for walking and very popular with kayakers.

To see more beaches, continue up La Jolla Shores Drive and turn left onto North Torrey Pines Road. Turn left at Torrey Pines Scenic Drive and follow signs to the Torrey Pines Gliderport (www.flytorrey.com). This spot offers a rare up-close-and-personal view of hang gliders and paragliders (tandem rides offered for the uninitiated). It is also my favorite off-the-beaten-path place for lunch. (See June 2 post: “A Picnic Table with a View.”)

From the Gliderport, continue north on Torrey Pines Road for a beautiful view of Torrey Pines State Beach. The Reserve (http://www.torreypine.org/) above the beach offers more great views...guaranteed to take your breath away.

Dog Friendly La Jolla

If your family vacations plans include one or more “people” with four legs and a wagging tail, know that you will all be welcome in La Jolla.

Dog-friendly beaches include La Jolla Shores between 6pm and 9am, and Fido can socialize 24 hours a day off-leash at Capehart Dog Park on the corner of Soledad Mountain Road and Felspar Street (just north of Garnet in Pacific Beach).

Kate Sessions Park, where leashed dogs are welcome, is a beautiful green oasis on Soledad Road with a south facing view of downtown and Mission Bay.

San Diego’s best known Dog Beach is in Ocean Beach. Here, dogs of all sizes are free to race up and down the sand and play in the water 24/7. If you go to OB, you might also feel the need to stop in at the Dog Beach Dog Wash (http://www.dogwash.com/) and give man’s best friend a shampoo. Ocean Beach is 20 about minutes from La Jolla.

And whatever you do, don’t miss Muttropolis “a Utopia for pets and their parents,” at 7755 Girard Avenue in La Jolla (858-459-9663; http://www.muttropolis.com/). This cute store sells all kinds of practical supplies for our four-legged friends – including bowls, collars, beds, food, and leashes. They also carry a somewhat eccentric line of dog jewelry and clothing – the watermelon sorbet pink dog dress being one example.

If Pooch isn’t a good swimmer, buy a doggie life jacket at Muttropolis, and if he doesn’t like to walk, they offer several models of dog strollers.

Hey. It’s La Jolla. What can I say?