In Search of the Best Beach

Even though I live here, La Jolla’s beautiful beaches still take my breath away. To best sure you see the most scenic viewpoints, follow this route:

Starting at the south end of La Jolla - at La Jolla Boulevard and La Cañada Street - take La Cañada towards the ocean. You’ll have a good view of Bird Rock – literally a big rock offshore covered with birds – on your left just after you pass Avenida Cresta. This landmark gives its name to the surrounding neighborhood and is a popular surfing spot.

Continue north on Camino de la Costa, past a gaggle of beautiful homes, and jog left at Palomar Avenue. Now you’re on Neptune Place - witnessing drop-dead gorgeous Windansea Beach. The surf shack on the beach is a designated historical landmark. For decades, Windansea’s surf has attracted the world’s best riders. It was also featured in Tom Wolfe's book The Pump House Gang. For more information, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windansea_Beach

As you follow the coast, you'll pass the Children's Pool (see my April 6 post: “The Children's Pool Has Gone to the Dogs....er Seals”) en route to the La Jolla Cove. From here, walk along Coast Walk (a pedestrians only dirt trail). The path, which starts to the left of The Cave Store (http://www.cavestore.com/), offers one of the most beautiful blue-water vistas in our Golden State.

After stretching your legs, take Prospect Street to Torrey Pines Road and make a left turn. Turn left again onto Princess Street and you’ll find yourself passing the Marine Room, home to the best beachfront dining in town (http://www.marineroom.com/).

Continue along the water, past the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club (http://www.ljbtc.com/) to La Jolla Shores Beach – another great spot for walking and very popular with kayakers.

To see more beaches, continue up La Jolla Shores Drive and turn left onto North Torrey Pines Road. Turn left at Torrey Pines Scenic Drive and follow signs to the Torrey Pines Gliderport (www.flytorrey.com). This spot offers a rare up-close-and-personal view of hang gliders and paragliders (tandem rides offered for the uninitiated). It is also my favorite off-the-beaten-path place for lunch. (See June 2 post: “A Picnic Table with a View.”)

From the Gliderport, continue north on Torrey Pines Road for a beautiful view of Torrey Pines State Beach. The Reserve (http://www.torreypine.org/) above the beach offers more great views...guaranteed to take your breath away.

Don’t Wait – the Cows Are Mooving On

“Whacky” is not a word usually used to describe La Jolla, but since the arrival of 40 artfully-painted full-size bovines – it’s the perfect descriptor. The colorful fiberglass cows are on display throughout the village and they make me – and a lot of other people – smile as we go about our business.

The mod moo moos were painted by local artists, and will eventually be auctioned to raise funds for Rady Children’s Hospital and the San Diego Zoo. In the meantime, you can go to http://www.cowparadelajolla.com/ for more information and a map of their locations.

My favorite, "Designer Genes" wears trendy denim pants, bright red lipstick, and yellow star earrings. Across the street, on the corner of Girard Avenue and Wall Street, “Digesting the News” appears to have eaten so much newspaper that his body is covered in black-and-white sections. In contrast, “Cowsablanca” has blue legs, a purple face, and a green, red, and orange body.

“Public art” often conjures up images of serious bronze figures that add gravitas to a site, but these fashionistas are whacky – and I love it.

CowParade was started in Chicago in 1999, and since then herds have turned up in 50 cities on six continents, including New York, Paris, London, and Mexico City.

La Jolla’s cows are mooving on June 15, and you really don’t want to miss seeing them. They’re udderly adorable.

La Jolla Farmers' Market

The La Jolla farmers' market is a perfect example of a really cool thing that doesn't get on the radar screen of most visitors. It's held every Sunday from 9am - 1pm on the playground of La Jolla Elementary on "upper Girard." That's the part of our main drag that extends south of Pearl Street.

The market - officially it's the "La Jolla Elementary Open Aire Market" - is popular with lots of locals who are there every week stocking up on fruit, veggies, and flowers. However, even if you are traveling and not cooking (hey, I live here and don't cook) there are lots of other reasons to go.

Personally, I love the jewelry - especially the fact that if I see something I like, but it's not exactly what I want, the artisan will often offer to take a custom order. Even the woman who sells the Deruta pottery wrote down the description of the planter I wanted and brought it back from Italy on her next trip. Other vendors sell colorful cotton tablecloths, Oriental rugs, handmade pottery, and a wide range of clever clothing.

The market is also a great place to find gourmet food items - to keep or to gift. I often buy the flavored olive oil, the handcrafted salsa, and the organic salad dressing. Having said that, in truth, my favorite market foods are the highly-addictive kettle corn and anything from Charlie's Best Breads.

More than 75 vendors set up stalls every week. Another ten or so, set up mini-kitchens. I don't know how they manage in such small spaces, but I've had some great Mexican dishes from this mobile food court, as well as crepes, gyros, kebabs, and barbecued chicken. The shaded picnic tables also make a good spot for people watching.

It's a bit of a carnival really. Serious foodies march from stall to stall procuring ingredients; kids run wild in the play area; folks stand in line for a chair massage; and live music puts a smile on everyone's face.

It can be crowded, and you may have to maneuver around baby strollers and step over a few dog leashes, but if you go, you'll see why it's my favorite slice of La Jolla life.

Inside Scoop on the US Open

I live in La Jolla and I'm a travel writer. What that means is that, in addition to enjoying my home town's great weather, beautiful surroundings, and range of cultural and recreational options, I also see La Jolla as a travel destination. And what I see sometimes drives me batty.

People flock to La Jolla, but don't take advantage of everything our community offers. So I decided to start this blog and provide a head's up for would-be visitors. The "inside scoop," if you will.

Hey. I figure if I can write The Insider's Hong Kong (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/february2006/travel.html) and The Insider's India (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/october2007/travel.html), I ought to be able to lead readers off the beaten path that starts just outside my front door. And why shouldn't I? I'm lucky enough to live here...consider this payback.

OK. So now we're bracing for the US Open (June 12 -15). The USGA capped ticket sales at 42,500 a day, and they went fast. However, if you are ticket-less and want to attend there's still hope. San Diego Golf Reservations (866-701-4653, http://www.sandiegogolf.com/) still has tickets to sell. Of course the price is marked up, but do you want to go or not?

The other option, is to take advantage of the packages being offered by The Grand Del Mar, a fairly new very grand resort about 15 minutes north of La Jolla. They are offering packages with and without accommodation that include tickets. Again, this isn't an inexpensive option.

Their US Open Grand Access Package includes a one-night stay and admission for two to the US Open on the following day. Rates start at $605 per person (888-314-2030, http://www.thegranddelmar.com/).

Their US Open VIP View Package includes one-day admission to the Open; access to the Manchester Pavilion VIP Hospitality Tent on the 10th Fairway; daily breakfast, lunch, cocktails, and dinner inside the Pavilion; preferred parking; and access to the onsite business center. Weeklong packages start at $3,300 per person, but daily rates are also available. Contact Rob Sterling at 858-314-2055.

More later.